Solrac S-II-A escribiste:
Hola Mundaka! yo estoy en S/C, algo he oido de lo del bloqueo ese pero la verdad es que no se como va, ¿se podra colocar algun mecanismo para conectar desde el interior? el mio es del 2002 es del ultimo modelo, el de los faros raros.
Solrac
Esto es lo que yo hice y me funciono para mi Disco II MY99 , ahora ya tengo mi bloqueo central de diferencial con una palanca de giro manual que le fabrique segun el documento y procedimiento que publico nuestro amigo Greg Davis de la página DiscoWeb como dice es muy laborioso pero vale la pena el esfuerzo y además no cuesta más de 25USD.
Este es el procedimiento.
El link
http://www.discoweb.org/
Entras a la sección Tech y despues buscas: CDL Lever Disco2 vienen ademas un par de fotos
CDL Lever for Discovery Series II
My CDL is very basic. Nothing glamorous. Probably similar to what Adam Skerritt on the DII list is doing, but I've never seen his kit so I'm just guessing.
The CDL shaft on top of the x-fer box is not in a straight line to be able to run a shaft straight up into the cab. You need to make a couple of bends. I looked everywhere for small u-joints to allow this. I used to be into RC cars, but couldn't find small u-joints any more.
Working in my garage one day I looked in my drawer and saw my flexible extension for my sockets. Perfect!
To make a long story short, I made a small bracket that fits onto the top of the shaft. You will need to hand file this as it has a unique shape. It's a shaft w/ flats on two sides. Not hard, just tedious. Once this is done, an 8mm nut will secure the bracket onto the shaft.
The bracket needs to be in the shape of a square "U". The legs of the "U" will need holes drilled in them at the top. Then, take a socket (I forgot the size, but it's a 3/8" drive-if the legs are tall enough the size won't matter) and drill corresponding holes thru the sides where the bolt would normally fit. Insert a bolt through one leg, the socket, and the other leg and secure with a lock washer and nut.
Take a 3/8" drive flexible socket and insert into the socket and weld together. Install a 6" 3/8" extension and weld together. Install a 3/8" flexible socket, and weld together. Install a 10" 3/8" extension and weld together. All of this can be assembled as a unit and then installed onto the CDL shaft.
From the inside remove the console. The tricky part is drilling the 1" hole in the right location next to the Hi-Lo shifter. The hole will be centered from front to rear and right next to the Hi-Lo boot lip. Once this hole has been drilled, you can install the linkage.
Install a rubber grommet (1" w/ .5" ID hole) over the shaft to seal out noise and stop vibration. Drop a large flat washer over the shaft and let it rest on the metal tranny hump/grommet. Then install a small hose clamp and tighten, taking the upward slack out of the linkage. If you don't do this, the linkage will drop down thru the hole because of the u-joints.
Drill a corresponding hole in the console and re-install. Install another grommet. Select a knob of your choice. The shaft will need to be trimmed according to how high you want the knob to stick up. Find a good knob. Mine is kinda cheap and will be replaced ASAP. Most knobs are made for shifting and not twisting, so they come loose from their mounting. I epoxied mine onto it's mounting collar. CDL can now be engaged by simply turning the knob clockwise 1/4 turn, and disengaged by turning counter-clockwise 1/4 turn.
A tedious and pain-in-the-ass install, but less than $25 in parts. Definitely worth it! Good luck and let me know if you have any problems.
Greg Davis
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